西安 Xī'ān - ancient warriors in the contemporary "mist"

Xi'an, in Shaanxi province is a city of great historical and cultural importance. It is situated in the South West of the "Northern Capital" (34°16′N 108°55′;)) and figures just below the latter on the check list of numerous China travellers. While it took me 9 months to finally see the Forbidden City from the inside (yep, I live in Beijing..), I, last week, and after 17 months in China, set out to tick yet another one of these reportedly "must do" destinations off my “to see” list. Well then, is Xi'an a "must do"?

CELEBRATE CHINESE TRAINS - Chinese trains may still be relatively slow (however, the average speed has just been raised, I forgot by how many km/h, by the central authorities) but they provide a great, insightful microcosm. The 11.5 resp. 15 hours (depending on which train one takes) it takes to Xi'an can provide you with plenty of interesting encounters (some interesting (eg. the seemingly average Chinese neighbour telling you about his missions in Europe and Africa) some challenging (eg. the human chainsaw sleeping just below you or the seemingly delicate lady whose morning hygiene almost causes the train to derail), some bewildering (eg. the charming guy met in the restaurant wagon who, after downing a couple of Baijiu (and still thinking I am German) would like to seal the new friendship by drinking on Hitler),..) while enjoying the comfort (I recommend you to choose “hard-“ or “soft sleeper” for trips above 8 hours) of Chinese trains. Hence, first reason to travel to Xi'an (even though this selling point applies to just about every destination in China with a train station and should probably be reformulated: don’t miss out on Chinese trains! ;)

CONDENSED CHINESE HISTORY - Xi'an was on the ancient Silk road, figured among the most wealthiest cities of the Middle Kingdom, was, on and off, the capital for 13 dynasties (including the Zhou, Qin, Han, and Tang) and is, therefore, home to some quite remarkable monuments. One among them is the city wall, which had been built between 194 and 190 BCE, was re-constructed in the Ming Dynasty and renovated just recently. Today the city wall, enclosing the ancient city (which was modernized and looks just about like any other Chinese city today (eg. below)) is a rather beautiful monument that is wide enough to ride a bike on.

Looking at the city from up there while cruising once around it (it took us (was great to catch up with Jessica and Winston) about an hour (some singing and Cannon moments included..)) is definitely worth it - especially during days when only the thick layer of smog separates you from the sun..

While the city wall was renovated in style (I won't discuss the chrismaslike lights decorating the wall at night), Hua Qing Chi (home and bathing place of Yáng Guìfēi, the Xuanzong emperor's most beloved consort) can only be recommended to fans of the Chinese approach to mass tourism: the place has been, I adventure to say, totally rebuilt, including discolights in "antique" roofs", big posters announcing the evening show of "The Chinese Romeo and Juliet", tons of tour groups including customized caps so as not to loose anyone. Furthermore one of the farmers who discovered the Terracotta warriors nearby sits in a room and gives you an autograph, for 10RMB and, if you insist, a picture with him; for an additional 10RMB. Thus: save the 70RMB entrance for a good dinner..

TERRACOTTA ARMY- Had the ego, ideas and projects of Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of a unified China (from 221 to 210BC) been less colossal, the famous Terracotta Army would have never been built, let alone discovered by local farmers and unearthed in 1974. 8099 life size horses and warriors, originally buried with Qin Shi Huang so as to help the latter rule another empire in the afterlife, have been surfaced. They are not only imposing in number but also rich in detail and beautiful in features. I could have stayed there a whole lot longer and enjoy the memories of the past they evoke.

They are definitely worth seeing, even though the museum built next to them disqualifies itself claiming to be one of the best museums in the world; not only not exactly modest but, in my humble opinion, not true (even though the exhibited picture of the visiting former Chinese capo de tutti capi evoked my interest (eg. position of his trouser.. ;)).
I would recommend skipping the museum and spending more time at the warriors.

MOSQUE AND MUSLIM QUATER - One more site worth a detour are the manifestations of muslim influence in Xi'an, dating back to at least the Tang dynasty. The Great Mosque's architecture is completely Chinese in style, and, except for some Arabic script, also in decoration. Minarets are missing. However, the place is a well frequented place of worship, especially by the Hui people and going there during a prayer is worth it; not only for situations such as captured below. "Small brothers are watching you".. ;)

Other than that Xi'an seems to be somewhat the victim of Chinese modernisation which is characterized by a relative lack of architectural creativity and enormous pollution. The latter is rather impressive and flat out nasty since it even and easily tops the already considerable pollution in Beijing. We have made out some solar panels and take it as an indicator for the will to improve the situation. I hope that these efforts will not only be kept up but seriously increased so that my overall recommendation can be kept up: for a weekend trip, Xi'an is definitely worth it, even though not only its ancient warriors are suffering from the contemporary "mist".. ;)

Touristily yours.. Dom ^^

xian, china, travelling, mainland tourism, terracotta warriors